Island Brew

Sorrel, also known as  Hibiscus, Roselle or Bissap, is a stunning magenta flower that blooms in December right here in Saint Lucia. I understand that there are some 232 different species, so I'm not sure which one I have here.

Each robust flower is an unique entity: succulent corolla curling out over a spiked calyx. Weighty and curvaceous, the blooms may be as long as 3-4 inches and a single flower fills your palm. Local lore attributes miraculous healing powers to this hefty blossom. Curative benefits are claimed from anti-cancer properties to weight loss.



After harvesting lemon grass from the beach and investing in  local curls of cinnamon bark and thumbs of ginger root, I'm now ready to brew the famous island treat: Christmas Punch.   I understand from my students that their families prepared liter after liter over the holiday week.  There is never enough!  Kids love this holiday treat over ice with sugar syrup and cloves.  Adults enjoy it with a lemon wedge and plenty of Bounty rum, of course.

Futures Field Trip

Khaia, Kristina, Kwan and Terry

Four, fearless, five-year olds are saving the environment.  Our Music in Action team from the Saint Lucia School of Music has set forth to spread the word about Principal 10, legislation to protect the island from corruption and pollution. First stop- the local radio station!

After mastering a one-minute radio jingle in just two takes at Radio St. Lucia (RSL), this ace team surveys the  coastline and nearby transmitter tower.  Perhaps they are considering their long futures and how to set their sites on improving bad adult behavior that destroys the ocean and beaches?  Or, perhaps, that shaggy dog in the transmitter shed wants to play?

Posing for a photo opportunity with engineer and anchor, Liz-Anne, these students are proud their voices are now being heard. Keep an eye out for these young environmentalists in 2017.  You can expect to see press releases outlining their endeavors and read more about Principal 10 as it relates to clean up in Latin and Caribbean countries.

Tree Time

Upper Strings Family

Being away from family and home on Christmas Day provides me with time and space to reflect on the spirit of the holyday. Where is home? Who is family?  What are traditions?

The one constant of the season here is the ubiquitous Christmas tree.  Kids love to decorate it. Oldsters enjoy sharing songs and stories around it.  And, everyone gets their picture taken next to it.

Gene leads Calypso Caroling

Decorating Committee Kids

In the West Indies, gone is the the traditional Christmas card. Brightly colored jpg texts featuring hallmark sentiments  begin pinging at dawn. Carols set to Calypso grooves replace English hymns in the supermarket and the club.  Instead of firecrackers,  homemade, kerosene bamboo cannons burst the night.

Instant families of ex-pats congregate wherever is convenient (under trees in hotels and shopping malls!) to remember the season and celebrate new traditions.  We like what we know, but being abroad for the holidays gives one an opportunity to know what we like.

Christmas Weak

Winter holidays in the Caribbean provide a tropical twist on an ancient theme.  Salesgirls in "fur"trimmed velveteen mini dresses and classic Santa hats sprout up along the city streets.  400 year old English Carols from across the ocean are performed on steel pan cut from oil drums. A shed sized creche rests in yonder shopping mall courtyard baking in the afternoon sun.

I know that today's date is December 23rd.  I know my two brothers have arrived from overseas to visit mom in the States. My conscious mind grapples with the cognitive dissonance of palm trees and sandy beaches instead of slushy wintry mix and long cold nights.

Despite the plethora of performances, this week still does not feel like Christmas...yet!  Only the silent procession of slowly moving traffic and extended shopping mall hours give a jingle that something festive is afoot.

Antlers and Bows

The ARC boat race culminated with an awards ceremony Saturday, and the nautical holiday season continues with a performance at the Rodney Bay Marina Sunday.  Yachters are preparing to sail onto their next ports; Antigua, Martinique, Venezuela...but, an approaching weather system gives them pause.  In the meantime, there are carols to sing and silly hats to wear.






The Chamber Orchestra sets up under a tent near the boardwalk overlooking berths containing 110- foot yachts and charter vessels.  The students are now masters and have settled into a comfortably conductor-less group.  The concert mistress leads from her seat in the first violin section.










While the orchestra plays, I work.  The dim stage needs lights and sound reinforcement for the dulcet strings. Only tables within 25-feet can truly appreciate the efforts of the teenagers.  So, I set off with my donation can to raise funds to purchase lights and sound for the enterprising ensemble.  I'm impressed with the generosity of the patrons and always eager the hear their first impressions.  A string orchestra in the Caribbean is an anomaly.  Nothing about the climate and culture here supports what these young people are doing. This stark contrast arouses interest and assistance especially in this "most wonderful" season of giving.

Weather or Not

As climate patterns change around the world, the climate of Saint Lucia is experiencing a world of change.  I can easily remember this little island is a third world country as I make my way down this soggy path each day.  With daily deluges and torrents of water streaming down the mountains, our little road becomes a river.

Enterprising bridge builders place and replace boards, rock and bricks to make passage. One neighbor carries a change of shoes.  I'm mesmerized by the emergent rock garden resulting from the combined forces of man and nature.  A herd of cattle grazing on the lush grass adds to the unpredictable travel!

Caribbean Arches

The Arch of Bows is a tradition adapted from West Point Military Academy.  Of course, the cadets use swords and are a bit more organized, but the display of ceremony and honor are similar.   In my previous position as Orchestra Director in Wilmington, MA, we always enjoyed initiating new members into the ensemble by forming an arch with violin bows and inviting members to walk through.  As performers join or exit the program, the arch awaits as a metaphor for passage.

Our End of Term Concert at the Saint Lucia School of Music coincided with the departure of six teachers from Venezuela.  These talented young people arrived ten weeks ago to share their knowledge of El Sistema and assist in the musical education of Lucian youth. As the beaming teachers proceeded shyly beneath the canopy of raised bows, each was warmly greeted at the end by the Executive Director with a sparkling goodie bag.

It's not every school concert that is hosted by an ambassador.  Her Excellency, Leiff Escalona, the Venezuelan ambassador formally greeted the public and students and then expounded on the continuing musical relationship between the two countries. The Bolivarian Republic of Venezuela has been dedicated to to increasing music appreciation in Saint Lucia since 2013.  Her husband sat proudly in the audience anticipating the his young daughter's first performance with the choir.

Holiday Notes

Chad and Cello Santa

The start of holiday season coincides with the end of the first school trimester in Saint Lucian schools.  Students have completed exams and are eager to enjoy a much needed break.  Not at the Saint Lucia School of Music. There the music never stops.  Young musicians are prepared to perform the  end of term recitals and Christmas concerts right up to, and including, Christmas Day.

Homemade Awards

Cupcake Wreath

In the SLSM Strings Dept, performance classes allow young people to practice the art of performing in the classroom.  No uncomfortable clothes, forbidding stage or distant audience.  The Strings Family comes together to welcome the newest members of the department and celebrate the old.

The ad hoc reception includes homemade "Sour" Orange Juice and a Christmas wreath composed of chocolate and vanilla cupcakes under a crown of garish, green fondant.  Small prizes for everyone who performs and that cozy festive feeling for everyone in the room.

Most Wonderful Time

Lucian Nutcracker

 It's beginning to feel a little like Christmas.  If it weren't for holiday lights and decorations strung up across Saint Lucia, I wouldn't have been able  to remember this occasion.  Holidays here are celebrated much like in the States, with fake snow and plastic conifers, but winter coats are optional.

We are so close to the equator, weather doesn't change much from season to season.  In fact, there are only two seasons: rainy and dry, with a smattering of tropical storms throughout.  Tuesday, school was canceled because of too much rain!

Carols by the Tree

Like most countries during the winter season, school children gather in malls and churches to perform holiday carols and upbeat music. Unlike most countries, many of the groups are steel pan and drumming ensembles. The Saint Lucia School of Music Chamber Orchestra is an anomaly and performs several times a week during December, including Christmas Day. Bystanders are surprised and delighted to see the proficiency and professionalism of these orchestral musicians in a third world setting.

Post-performance Pizza Party

And, like most everywhere in the world, holiday performances include food and togetherness. After all, it is still, "The most wonderful time of the year."

Landmark Video

Atlantic View from Pigeon Island

Pigeon Island used to be an island.  Two monumental peaks rising at the northwest tip of Saint Lucia divided the Atlantic and Caribbean waters. The island was also the haunts of Pirates and Admirals, forts and rum runs. In a move to increase commerce and marina traffic, the country connected the island to the mainland with a causeway built of dirt excavated from the marina bay.

Future Environmentalist

In  brilliant move, in 1975 the newly independent government of Saint Lucia established a land trust to protect this historic site.  There are other national parks on the island, but what is different about the Pigeon Island Landmark is the increasing use of private membership to promote advocacy on environmental issues.

I'm a member of the Saint Lucia National Trust, and when I heard about the need to advertise environmental legislation, I called on my radio and music background to write a few jingles. Who else to perform these jingles than the children who will inherit the island?  Lucian children are understandably disgusted by the trash on their beaches and pollution in their rivers.

My first jingle was posted here in October, and now, at last, is the second jingle with pictures featuring 5-year old Khaia.  The same video is posted at the bottom of the Information Board of the international legislation webpage for Principle Ten.

Party for a Prince

As the sun sets over Castries harbor, Government House is abuzz wth activity.  The energy is palpable as maids, bartenders, special police all work together to prepare for the arrival of Prince Harry of Wales.

Even a distant, fifth-in-line Prince is still a prince, and no effort is spared to make this party a success.  Tents and boardwalks fan out across the crest of Morne Fortune. A steel pan enemble of primary school children sets up across from the smartly, uniformed Police Band.  Inside to be the first to welcome the newly arrived royalty, is a string quartet from the Saint Lucia School of Music.





The quartet is made up of three Lucian and one visiting Venezuelan teenager.  The students seem a bit nervous and shy, at first, but are soon easily greeting Ambassadors and dignitaries.  The Prime Minister and Governor General smile as they pass.  Journalists speedily photoshop images of Prince Harry disembarking from a Royal Air Force tanker only an hour before.  Trays of appetizers float by and the students put their music in order.






At some point, as if this hive of activity has simultaneously received a silent message, the photographers close their laptops and crowd the entrance with long lenses. The steelpans fall silent and the students raise their bows. Anticipation and excitement are a peak levels as the motorcade arrives and Prince Harry steps through the main entrance.

Arcs and Barges- Part II

Barge Beach populates as Castries Harbor boat-ulates.   Onlookers breakfast on freshly sauteed sausage and bottles of cold Piton Beer.  A large pot of hot chicken bouillon is served into bowls and passed with hunks of chewy Creole bread. Eggs fried in the wheel house make the rounds, filling the air with the smell of sizzling butter.

Gathered to celebrate the ARC, boats cruise so closely together, captains exchange greetings and taunt one another from behind their wheel.  To add injury to insult, the Piton Piler fires unbelievably loud soda bottle bombs from the wheelhouse  at troublesome neighbors as they drift by.  Cannons made of wide diameters of bamboo are aimed over the side at the worst offenders.

A huge catamaran, with even huger loudspeakers, pulls up alongside the barge, and soon passengers are dancing and shouting across the bows to escalate the explosive atmosphere. Everyone is ready for a party, and there doesn't seem to be even a bit of competitive edginess.





After much mayhem and milling about, as if by magic, the flock of boats quietly turn their sails and head to sea. So, much for the barge leading the flotilla!  Although we are sure to be last in the race, luck has it we are first to the Boardwalk.  A barge drops only 2 feet below the water surface, so we can cut corners and park right next to the Boardwalk Bar. Kianna keeps time on the snare while, we are left far behind to putter our way north alone.

Arcs and Barges- Part I

There's that barge again! The Piton Piler, named not for the iconic Saint Lucian mountain peaks, but instead after the local beer, sailed across the Castries harbor early last Sunday.

Onboard, the motley crew is prepared to lead a flotilla North from the capitol of Saint Lucia to the capitol of sailing, Rodney Bay.  Each year boats gather in the city port to attract attention for the launch of the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC) in Las Palmas, Spain.  It takes over a week for boats to navigate 2,700 nautical miles west across the Atlantic to the Caribbean and cross the finish line near Rodney Bay.  Tired sailors then head for the boardwalk to enjoy prizes and refreshment.











The Piton Piler is equipped on this special day with it's own beach, it's own band, and it's own breakfast.  The Captains, assisted by first mate, 8-year old Kianna, motor around the crowded harbor, while sausages saute and lounge chairs recline.

8 legs-No Waiting

In the marina is where I might wish to meet a captain seeking crew for a race or daysail.  Yachts are often better managed and more fun with a group of persons to take direction and set the sails.  So, I was happy to receive an invitation to crew on a beautiful Sunday in Rodney Bay.

But, as the old adage warns, be careful what you wish for!  Turns out the vessel was a working barge and the mission for the crew was to set a mooring for mega-catamarans.  The mooring consisted of a 2.5 ton concrete block attached by heavy chain to a bright yellow buoy.  The intention is that boats can attach or detach to the chain and aren't required to set an anchor.

This barge came equipped with a crane, wheel-house and more ways to hurt yourself that you could possibly imagine. Rolling, swinging, low-hanging, sharp and unpredicatable objects were everywhere.  After some repairs and preparation, soon we were motoring to the center of the bay with our massive cargo.

Dropping the block was relatively easy, and then came the time to retrieve the old mooring.
Years underwater, the block had provided homes for anemone, seaweed and barnacles.  As the tonnage landed by my feet immediately out of the chain hole emerged a leg. And then another, and another, another, another, another, another, and... another!  This sudden creature moved a bit to fast for me to get a good photo as it sidestepped it's way back to the sea.

TalentFest

Seems like every Lucian school child is born to sing and dance. On the innately musical island of St. Lucia ,there is no shortage of talent. Little musicians with large abilities were were displayed last week on school stages across the island.

During National Music Festival Week, color, sound and excitement all come together for five days. Elementary and secondary music ensembles compete by district, and the audience samples a wide variety of acts.  West African drumming ensembles compete alongside the pop vocal group and symphony orchestra.  Each school is represented by its uniform and insignia, but the rhythmic and melodic abilities seem infinite.

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You Are What You Eat

Sunday is Jounen Kwéyòl (Creole Day) in Saint Lucia.  Preparations were underway the beginning of October and culminate this weekend with various celebrations across the island.  

Local dishes such as roast breadfruit, Green Fig (which are green bananas), king fish, Manicou (possum), Souse (a soup made with pork and often cucumber), Accra (a fried dough which contains salt fish), and Bouillon (fish, chicken or meat stewed with dasheen, yams, plantains, banana and dumplings), which is less a soup and more a stew. 


The locals get a faraway look in their eyes as they recount a long list of foods they plan to enjoy  Perhaps, this holiday is like Thanksgiving in the U.S. Traditional foods are anticipated throughout the year, and appetite finds a bedfellow with a hunger for Nationalism.  I'm enjoying the addition of the colorful Madras cloth to drab Castries.  Vendors sell pre-emancipation style clothing and decorations made of the bright plaids. Buildings and buses boast banners and ribbons.  A van makes decorative deliveries right to your door!  Although the cloth originated in India and was sold to the Lucians by the British, Madras is now an emblem of Kwéyòl  heritage.

2 4 6 8 Principle 10

"Saint Lucia and the Commonwealth of Dominica are the only two Eastern Caribbean countries that have not yet signed on to the Latin America and Caribbean (LAC) Declaration on Principle 10."  









I don't know why Saint Lucia hasn't joined Latin American and the rest of the Caribbean in voting for legislation that requires transparency of information, but I can guess!  When you're a young, beautiful country, life seems like it can go on forever. Resources seem bottomless.    Poison the rivers to catch crayfish?  Why not!  Leave the picnic trash behind when you head home?  Of course!  However, age and negligence have taken a toll on this island of abundance and the neighbors are starting to talk.
I gathered a small group of small students who care, and we recorded this radio jingle (click jingle to hear) to promote the adoption of Principle 10.  Though I had to explain the concept of advocacy, I did not have to explain the problem of litter on the beaches.

Neighbor Notes

Jose demonstrates vibrato exercise. 

Venezuela and Saint Lucia are neighbors. These two countries share a common history and cultural identity, and as far back as 200 years, fought together during the Venezuelan Revolution.  When Saint Lucia gained her independence from the British in 1979, Venezuela set up an embassy on the island and has been a helpful neighbor ever since. When a hurricane destroyed bridges, Venezuela sent materials.  When negotiating oil export, Venezuela seeks deals with Saint Lucia.  When Venezuela exports their socialist music method, El Systema, the embassy discharges tutors to the Saint Lucia School of Music.

Two weeks ago, six teachers ages 19-24 arrived to assist in music education at the Saint Lucia School of Music. These rigorous, passionate young people are products of a government-run after school program, and they arrive eager to share their knowledge and pedagogy with their neighbors.

New energy for Chamber Orchestra!

Suddenly the sleepy campus is transformed! Music sessions are underway inside, outside and on the paths in between.  French horn, oboe and double bass emerge from closets and broken instruments are repaired and put into service.  

Dining at Dukes

What do you do on a Saturday night in Saint Lucia? Eat, of course! Friday nights feature the well-advertised local FishFrys.  Communities of Anse La Raye, Gros Islet and Dennery all boast weekly street parties set with stacks of speakers and lined with makeshift bars.  However, Saturday is quieter and quite tasty if you stop by Dukes Place in Gros Islet.

Don't be daunted by the throng of hungry tourists and locals.  Yes, the line isn't moving much, but while you queue, you can sip and chat while watching cooks pull rack after rack of barracuda and potfish off glowing coals.

Seasoned fish sheathed in chicken wire stays richly moist in thick cut pieces. As the mesh is carefully pried apart, fillets are delivered directly onto one paper plate after another.

Further down the table are provisions: a deep kettle of Caribbean rice and bottomless bowl of slaw.  Use both hands to navigate your heaped portions to picnic tables stapled with oilcloth.  There is always a seat. Somehow the numbers in line to get food is always greater than seats available!